DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
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DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
I'd like to consolidate and share my method of quickly reproducing a Multicam pattern with spray paint for weapons painting. It isn't a perfect reproduction, but is much easier and faster than applying five different layers of pattern stickers. This method was adapted from 4track of Lightfighter.net, without whom I'd have never gotten the results I did.
Paints used:
Aervoe 1082 Light Sand
Aervoe 968 Field Drab
Aervoe 951 Light Green
Aervoe 952 Dark Green
Krylon 4292 Brown
To my knowledge Aervoe does not (currently) make a proper dark brown. Their closest color was 999 Earth Brown, which is a sort of a reddish cinnamon brown. It's a fine color but dark brown it is not. Krylon 4292 Brown was exactly what I was hoping it would be. Krylon sprays more forcefully with a lot more 'throw' than 'spill', to relate it to flashlight beams. Aervoe was the opposite.
The stencils used set this apart from other techniques. They were created from three glass leading blanks, sourced from a local craft store. I traced the shapes from a Multicam assault pack, and combined the edges of many shapes to create a long continuous line down the middle of one of the blanks. They cut very easily with a soldering iron using a razor knife tip. Don't use any other soldering tip, a regular razor knife, or try heating a regular razor knife between cuts... even the thin conical "stencil cutting tip" included my kit didn't work well. To save you the frustration, use the razor knife soldering/burning attachment. The heated razor knife cut quickly and smoothly, and allows for cutting tight, flowing curves. I cut my stencils on top of a similarly sized pane of glass out of a cheap picture frame.
To prep the rifle I degreased with 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. I wet all exterior services thoroughly, wiped it down with a lint-free cloth, and repeated once more. Tape off any surfaces you don't want painted, especially suppressor mating surfaces (muzzle devices/collars) and optic markings/glass. On my personal rifle I didn't bother sealing around the ejection port cover, sealing the muzzle, sealing between the upper and lower receiver, or taping off any control components on the lower. On our duty rifles I did tape off the muzzle devices, suppressor mating collars, etc. If you have a critical reason or care especially, mask/tape... otherwise, it doesn't matter.
I started with a solid base of Aervoe 1082 Light Sand. Standard rules of spraying apply: don't spray too close to the surface, allow some overlap in your spray pattern, don't spray too thick. Remember, most of this base layer is getting one to four more colors on top of it. Remember to spray under movable components (under BUIS, under both/all safety positions, etc.) Let the base layer dry in the sun or in front of a standing space heater until it isn't tacky. I didn't wait for coats to cure totally before applying the next coat.
Paints used:
Aervoe 1082 Light Sand
Aervoe 968 Field Drab
Aervoe 951 Light Green
Aervoe 952 Dark Green
Krylon 4292 Brown
To my knowledge Aervoe does not (currently) make a proper dark brown. Their closest color was 999 Earth Brown, which is a sort of a reddish cinnamon brown. It's a fine color but dark brown it is not. Krylon 4292 Brown was exactly what I was hoping it would be. Krylon sprays more forcefully with a lot more 'throw' than 'spill', to relate it to flashlight beams. Aervoe was the opposite.
The stencils used set this apart from other techniques. They were created from three glass leading blanks, sourced from a local craft store. I traced the shapes from a Multicam assault pack, and combined the edges of many shapes to create a long continuous line down the middle of one of the blanks. They cut very easily with a soldering iron using a razor knife tip. Don't use any other soldering tip, a regular razor knife, or try heating a regular razor knife between cuts... even the thin conical "stencil cutting tip" included my kit didn't work well. To save you the frustration, use the razor knife soldering/burning attachment. The heated razor knife cut quickly and smoothly, and allows for cutting tight, flowing curves. I cut my stencils on top of a similarly sized pane of glass out of a cheap picture frame.
To prep the rifle I degreased with 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. I wet all exterior services thoroughly, wiped it down with a lint-free cloth, and repeated once more. Tape off any surfaces you don't want painted, especially suppressor mating surfaces (muzzle devices/collars) and optic markings/glass. On my personal rifle I didn't bother sealing around the ejection port cover, sealing the muzzle, sealing between the upper and lower receiver, or taping off any control components on the lower. On our duty rifles I did tape off the muzzle devices, suppressor mating collars, etc. If you have a critical reason or care especially, mask/tape... otherwise, it doesn't matter.
I started with a solid base of Aervoe 1082 Light Sand. Standard rules of spraying apply: don't spray too close to the surface, allow some overlap in your spray pattern, don't spray too thick. Remember, most of this base layer is getting one to four more colors on top of it. Remember to spray under movable components (under BUIS, under both/all safety positions, etc.) Let the base layer dry in the sun or in front of a standing space heater until it isn't tacky. I didn't wait for coats to cure totally before applying the next coat.
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- Whootsinator
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
Using the half-sheet stencils apply fairly large sections of Multicam patterning using Aervoe 968 Field Drab, 951 Light Green, and 952 Dark Green. You can fade the Light Green and Dark green together without moving the stencil, and let Field Drab fade into the base Light Sand. You can get as picky and as detailed with your fading as you like, or just slap them on. As long as the final pattern is balanced it should an effective camouflage. Use the whole sheet stencils with more defined pattern blotches to fill in voids and spaces, but go nuts. It'll all come together in the end, don't go crazy filling in everything you can with color now.
Still using the whole sheet blotch/blob stencil, spray Krylon 4292 Brown to break up the lines of the pattern you have already. Do the same with Aervoe 1082 Light Sand, being a little more sparing with the Light Sand than the Krylon Brown. You're finished! If you like you can apply the most matte clear coat you can find. Mine did not get clear coat, and I don't mind the scratches. Let it cure for as long as you can, ideally in front of a space heater for the first night. I've heard depending on the environment it can continue curing for a month. Don't beat it around for the first week.
Still using the whole sheet blotch/blob stencil, spray Krylon 4292 Brown to break up the lines of the pattern you have already. Do the same with Aervoe 1082 Light Sand, being a little more sparing with the Light Sand than the Krylon Brown. You're finished! If you like you can apply the most matte clear coat you can find. Mine did not get clear coat, and I don't mind the scratches. Let it cure for as long as you can, ideally in front of a space heater for the first night. I've heard depending on the environment it can continue curing for a month. Don't beat it around for the first week.
Last edited by Whootsinator on Tue Feb 14, 2017 12:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
If you don't have the exact colors listed you can still get favorable results. Our duty rifles were painted with whatever Krylon we could find at the two closest hardware stores. The dark green was a little too blue-green and the light green was a little too "electric lime", but this method produced a very close visual match to Multicam regardless.
Last edited by Whootsinator on Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
This post is the gay.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
Coming from the man with more Jordan's than Jordan.... hahahahajackalo626 wrote:This post is the gay.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
You mistaken gay with fly. Fly is the answer we were looking for I'm sorry you were a great contestant though, come again.costellow wrote:Coming from the man with more Jordan's than Jordan.... hahahahajackalo626 wrote:This post is the gay.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
Last pair of Jordans I bought was like 4 kids ago from you. Point being that was a long time ago and you need to read more updates stranger.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
MODS, help!jackalo626 wrote:This post is the gay.
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wait...
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
Your the best and I love you, homo indeed.Whootsinator wrote:MODS, help!jackalo626 wrote:This post is the gay.
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wait...
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
jackalo626 wrote:Last pair of Jordans I bought was like 4 kids ago from you. Point being that was a long time ago and you need to read more updates stranger.
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lol touché
325MOUTguru wrote:In Soviet Russia instructor shoots you.
Tecumseh wrote:When your time comes to die, be not like those whose hearts are filled with fear of death, so that when their time comes they weep and pray for a little more time to live their lives over again in a different way. Sing your death song, and die like a hero going home.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
We call it "Content Aware"... reverse engineered from captured Predator technology.
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Re: DIY Multicamish Rattlecan Rifle Painting
I heard the predator was working for the govt but has betrayed and is now giving the tech away to soldiers for free.Whootsinator wrote:We call it "Content Aware"... reverse engineered from captured Predator technology.
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