Kentucky Armory Club

My wife is the crafty sort. She has a craft area in our finished basement, but it doesn't really work too well for her and it is usually disorganized and cluttered.

She wants to move her craft area upstairs to a spare bedroom that is going to be turned into an office/craft area.

That being said, she found a couple different designs that she liked. She settled on the one that I'm going to track in this build thread.

I'll try to be somewhat detailed about what materials it takes to finish and the timeline. I haven't purchased all of the materials at the time of the project start.

Materials/tool list at the beginning of the build:

10" Delta contractor table saw
Mitre gauge
Circular saw
Track to crosscut sheet goods
Router/router table
Impact driver
Drill
Pocket hole jig
Air compressor/nail guns
Various clamps
Squares
Tape measure/ruler
Shelf pin jig/drill bit
Heat gun


4 sheets of 3/4" cabinet plywood
2 sheets of 1/2" cabinet plywood
500 pocket hole screws
Glue
Veneer edging tape
Piano hinges
Screws

Additional materials
32 bf of 1x6 poplar to build doors

One note about planning this or any project. I wish I was better at using the Sketch-up design tool for a complete project plan at the start. I've tried to learn to use it but haven't been able to get to a finished design with a materials list and cut list. I need to do more of the tutorials to get better at it. For now, I sketch on grid paper and guesstimate the materials and cut lists.

Here we go:

This is what the craft center is supposed to look like.

We purchased the first round of supplies on Sunday.

Here is a pile of a good part of the plywood after being cut into the rough dimensions for the parts for the entire cabinet.



The main cabinet carcass

The main cabinet before dividers or shelves



Dividers and fixed shelves



All of the veneer edging has been applied to the front facing edges.

The main cabinet is 72" x 40" x 18"
The upper dividers/shelves are 15" deep. The lower shelves are 12" deep. The setback is due to the folding table attached to the lower horizontal shelf and the outermost door(looking at the first picture of the opened finished unit). The unit has 2 - 15" deep sections that fold open and then the thinner 3" deep section attached to the 15" section that also folds open.

This view might be better at showing how the center closes. It's difficult to describe how it works.

Looks great Tim.

The plywood that we are using is from Lowe's. It has a real nice finished side and a not as nice side that is best finished by painting. My wife and I haven't decided on how to finish it. I placed the nicer side to the outside on the main cabinet. We will probably end up painting the entire thing.

Looking good

I've made a few goofs already. Without thinking the placement of the adjustable shelf pin holes all the way through, you can see three rows of holes on the main cabinet sides. I failed to account for the setback of the vertical dividers and drilled the holes with the jig referenced off the edge of the cabinet sides, instead of in the correct position aligned with width of the dividers. Doh!!

I need to get some dowel rod to plug the extraneous holes along the front edge of the cabinet.

So, it has taken 3 - 8 hour days to pick up the materials, draw up "plans," and get to the point of the main cabinet's degree of completion at this point.

Nice job, move over Norm. Been a while since I've done a big project in the house like that.

how much you going to charge to build me one

Dave1965 wrote:how much you going to charge to build me one

The cheapo particle board units that they sell with everything that I'm going to put on this one are about $2500. So, how does $4000 sound?!? :llama:

Tomorrow will be raised panel day. I need to make the panels to place on the main folding sections that you see when the center is closed up.

Raised panels=$$$$$

Nice work! Looking great so far

nemo wrote:Nice job, move over Norm. Been a while since I've done a big project in the house like that.

Thanks! Me too.

rustynuts wrote:Looks great Tim.

Thanks!

PDM wrote:Looking good

Thanks!

Rem700 wrote:Nice work! Looking great so far

Thanks!

Gunsmokin wrote:

Dave1965 wrote:how much you going to charge to build me one

The cheapo particle board units that they sell with everything that I'm going to put on this one are about $2500. So, how does $4000 sound?!? :llama:

Probably most of that goes for the plastic bins


What if I say its not for crafts...does that make it cheaper

Dave1965 wrote:

Gunsmokin wrote:

Dave1965 wrote:how much you going to charge to build me one

The cheapo particle board units that they sell with everything that I'm going to put on this one are about $2500. So, how does $4000 sound?!? :llama:

Probably most of that goes for the plastic bins


What if I say its not for crafts...does that make it cheaper

That thing would be awesome to separate all of the patches, morale patches, and small ebay items I have listed... I may need to learn how to build stuff lol.....

Today in the shop, it's all about raised panels. In an organized and clean environment, this is about the most efficient way, other than a plain flat panel, to make a door for a cabinet or panels for a wall/room divider.

Started out by making a run to the lumber yard to pick up some 1x poplar. Once back home, I started by rough cutting the different parts of the doors.

Rails and stiles



Panels



Raised panel doors have 3 parts, the panel, rails, and stiles. The stiles are the vertical part of the frame. The rails are the horizontal parts. I just think of fence rails to keep them straight in my head.

Panel blanks

The edge profile on the rails and stiles are dependent on what shape bits you use. Mine are a round-over style.

The joint is called a stick and cope joint. The cope joint is milled into both ends of the rails on the first operation. You have a little setup, but it's pretty straightforward to adjust to the proper height. After a couple test cuts, you end up with a part that you can keep for future setups, like this one.



The "stick" profile runs down the long inside edge of the rails and stiles. If you have 2 or more panels per door, you will have an intermediate rail with both long edges milled with "stick" profile.



A different view of the "stick" profile:



This is also all of the door/panel frame parts finished with the milling operations.

You always want to dry-fit your parts to make sure nothing moved during the milling process.





I still have to mill up the panels to complete the doors. Don't think I will get them done today. Maybe tomorrow?? Today was about a 6 hour day as far as actual woodwork goes. Running total, about 28-30 hours.

Gettin after it!