Kentucky Armory Club

Its hinged and adjusted and that's how it fits. I still need to finish the internal bracing after I cut the hole in the hood but it is all fine tuning now. I have some adjustable stops in it for tweaking the fit and it seems to work well.

Marcus wrote:I feel like I need to drive this.

Come for a visit and you're welcome to get behind the wheel.

Mexican Kerry wrote:

Marcus wrote:I feel like I need to drive this.

Come for a visit and you're welcome to get behind the wheel.

There's always a catch

Got the distributor in last night and bolted the carbs on. I'm having serious doubts about the carb spacers, I don't expect they will work but its cheap to try it and I can take em off if I need to. The reason I used them is to clear the cowl so we'll see.





Even with the spacers its tight:



Nothing is hooked up yet, still need to run my plug wires, fuel lines, vacuum, throttle etc.

Great work MK!

Mexican Kerry wrote:Got the distributor in last night and bolted the carbs on. I'm having serious doubts about the carb spacers, I don't expect they will work but its cheap to try it and I can take em off if I need to. The reason I used them is to clear the cowl so we'll see.



Even with the spacers its tight:



Nothing is hooked up yet, still need to run my plug wires, fuel lines, vacuum, throttle etc.

You know once you get the plug wires in, it will no longer clear. That's just the way these things work

Mexican Kerry wrote:Got the distributor in last night and bolted the carbs on. I'm having serious doubts about the carb spacers, I don't expect they will work but its cheap to try it and I can take em off if I need to. The reason I used them is to clear the cowl so we'll see.





Even with the spacers its tight:



Nothing is hooked up yet, still need to run my plug wires, fuel lines, vacuum, throttle etc.

Do you have solid motor mounts or rubber? If you have solid mounts, was wondering if tilting the motor a degree or two forward would give you more space without screwing up the driveline angles.

Is this going to be a small block 396

PDM wrote:You know once you get the plug wires in, it will no longer clear. That's just the way these things work

Nothing's easy....

Gunsmokin wrote:Do you have solid motor mounts or rubber? If you have solid mounts, was wondering if tilting the motor a degree or two forward would give you more space without screwing up the driveline angles.

Even a degree or two would change the driveline angle beyond what I want, and it has original style front/bellhousing mounts (rubber).

My new frame will be set up with side mounts but I won't be using it for a while so I'm making do with the old one for now, trying things out and working out the bugs. Hopefully will lead to less experimentation when the time comes to do the swap.

Joe wrote:Is this going to be a small block 396

No, I was going to put a 396 in it but right now I'm leaning toward eventually doing a 377. No money to build a motor right now so just playing with the 350 that's in it.

On another note, yesterday MKwife got me a membership to the American Tri Five Association! she's been talking about me going to the Nats in BG 2016.

Mexican Kerry wrote:

Gunsmokin wrote:Do you have solid motor mounts or rubber? If you have solid mounts, was wondering if tilting the motor a degree or two forward would give you more space without screwing up the driveline angles.

Even a degree or two would change the driveline angle beyond what I want, and it has original style front/bellhousing mounts (rubber).

My new frame will be set up with side mounts but I won't be using it for a while so I'm making do with the old one for now, trying things out and working out the bugs. Hopefully will lead to less experimentation when the time comes to do the swap.

Gotcha.

Just curious as to why a 377 over a 383 or 396 small blocks of coarse

Just thought it would be interesting to do something different, everyone does a 383 and I figured I could build a high winding 377 fairly easily. Lots of 400 blocks around here for decent prices. I'm not really set on any particular motor at this point, just kicking ideas around for when I need to do it.

OK just wanted to know as 400 blocks are harder to find around here. The 377 winds up but I like the torque of the 383. I hope to build a 383 LT1 for my 96 Impala. It was supposed to be a 383 but its a 355 out out of Jasper's performance shop. Its always been that if you want a Chevy to wind you up build a 302, 327, or 377

I don't know yet what's going to work the best, the Muncie runs out of gear pretty quick as it is. I think its going to be a matter of playing around with it until I find a balance of what combination I like. It'll probably never end but that's the joy of it.

Got the hood cut and fit today, and started on some reinforcing to take some of the flex out from cutting it.





Kinda looks like a "barn find" right now.

Looking good MK

Mexican Kerry wrote:Got the hood cut and fit today, and started on some reinforcing to take some of the flex out from cutting it.





Kinda looks like a "barn find" right now.

Well, that would be a helluva barn find then! Looks great.

Didn't get much done last night because of neck pain but started on the exhaust. Made the first elbows coming off the headers. Going to put in a piece of straight pipe, then muffler, then side dumps. All 3". If it drones I'll add a glass pack in place of the straight pipe. I was going to do a cutout at the header collector but I don't think it'll be very restricted this way.





I also got some 2.5" spacers to raise the air cleaners up, so that takes care of the firewall clearance problem. Looks a little goofy but whatever.

Doesn't look bad at all

Piss. gotta fix this now.

Axle's back in now, bunch of other stuff done too. Getting closer to being ready to fire up. Also fine tuned the tilt today and got it working so I don't need a helper to open it. The fenders dragged on the doors so you had to have one person on each side to pull them out before tilting.

https://youtu.be/BjEu3Iwg7JM

Very cool!